Thorenc: Grasse's mountain resort
- Tom Richardson
- Aug 24
- 6 min read
Updated: Sep 13
About an hour's drive north of Grasse lies Thorenc*, a village with deep historical ties to our town. The Théas family, a wealthy merchant family from Grasse, ascended to the aristocracy by becoming the seigneurs of Thorenc in the seventeenth century. Other notable families from Grasse, such as the Isnards and the Fantons, also owned land in this area. The Théas' castle, which overlooks the valley of the river Lane, was visited by famous figures such as Goethe in the eighteenth century and Guy de Maupassant in the nineteenth.
The Rise of a Mountain Resort
What sets Thorenc apart from other villages in the region is its transformation into a mountain resort in the 1890s. At that time, Grasse was experiencing a boom in investment due to the revolution in perfumery, driven by steam distillation. Wealthy newcomers, including Alice de Rothschild and the Bowes family, were spending extravagantly. This influx of capital created opportunities for hotels catering to the affluent and health-conscious seeking the clean mountain air.
A Competitor to Davos
Davos in Switzerland became a popular destination for mountain cures in the nineteenth century. A group of investors from Grasse, led by the wealthy banker Jean Luce, envisioned Thorenc as a rival to Davos. Luce was a notable figure; locals would often say, "Il est riche comme Monsieur Luce" (He is as rich as Mr. Luce). He was also an enthusiastic amateur photographer, and many of his images from that era are preserved in the Alpes-Maritimes archives in Nice.
Other key players included the head of the Grasse hospital, the perfumer Hugues Ainé, a Rothschild bank, and Ferdinand Rost, a successful hotelier who managed Grasse's Grand Hotel.
The Grand Hotel catered to "hivernants" (winter visitors) and closed during the summer months. To fill this gap, the investors built an upscale summer hotel in Thorenc, named the Grand Hotel Climaterique. It opened in 1898 and operated from May 1st until mid-November. This arrangement allowed for consistent high standards of service through continuous employment for management and staff. The promoters also constructed a casino, a hippodrome, a golf course, and in 1902, they dammed the Lane river to create an artificial lake.
A tourist guide of the time invited visitors to enjoy "the atmospheric purity, the absence of humidity and fog, the strong sunshine, and" (perhaps crucially?) an "absence of mosquitoes."
By 1900, what was once an agricultural settlement had transformed into a bustling resort with "three hotels, twenty-five cottages and villas, a post office, telephone, doctor, pharmacist, two chapels, two butchers, two bakers, greengrocers, haberdasher, tobacconist, public works contractors, carriage rental companies, wine merchant, hairdresser, grocer, laundry, etc."
Getting to Thorenc
When the resort was first established, it took about four hours to travel from the railway station in Grasse to Thorenc. A private carriage ride cost 30 francs, while individuals could pay 5 francs for public transport.
It seems unlikely that the promoters anticipated the revolutionary impact of automobile technology on travel just as their investments were being made. They even considered building an expensive railway line from Grasse to facilitate quicker access to the resort. However, by the early 1900s, rapid advancements in automobile technology made it easier for wealthy tourists to reach Thorenc by car, while char-a-bancs became available for those with less means. Ultimately, the railway was never built, as the rise of motor travel rendered such a project economically unfeasible.
The rapid expansion of the new resort was likely aided by this fortunate timing!
Between the wars, a regular bus service connected the resort to the railway station in Grasse.
Today, things have changed. While there are still bus stops in the village, there is no actual service closer than Andon, and Thorenc can only be reached by car.
A Russian Connection
Thorenc attracted wealthy visitors from across Europe. In 1900, during the Boxer Rebellion in China, pre-revolutionary Russia invaded Manchuria. While their military efforts were successful, the Russian forces suffered significant casualties. A Russian Grand Duke, who primarily resided in Cannes, deemed Thorenc an ideal location for the convalescence of Russian officers. Two of Jean Luce's photographs capture groups of Russian soldiers and nurses in 1904.
The Russian connection endures today, evident in the Genévriers residence, built in 1903 in 'dacha' style, and a chapel that is one of only two Orthodox chapels in France constructed in traditional wooden design.
After the Great War
Following the Russian Revolution, Thorenc became a refuge for 'White' Russians, distinct from the 'Red' Bolsheviks. It appears that they were responsible for the construction of the chapel.
Thorenc remained a popular destination for tourists in the 1920s and 1930s. The Société Immobilière et Hôtelière de Thorenc, established in 1896, developed the Park-Palace hotel in Grasse on the site of Alice de Rothschild's Villa Victoria and owned the Hotel Wagram in Paris.
The resort also thrived as a refuge for individuals suffering from tuberculosis and other respiratory illnesses. In 1928, a sanatorium was built by the Church for clergy members. It featured a chapel originally consecrated by Angelo Roncalli, who later became Pope John XXIII. With the advent of antibiotics, the need for such facilities diminished, and the sanatorium closed in the 1960s.
What Happened to the Hotels?
Much like in Grasse (see my blog here), the historic hotels of Thorenc have faded from prominence but can still be seen in the form of apartments.
The Village Today
Unsurprisingly, Thorenc appears quite different from other villages in the region. There is no central square with terraced houses. Most buildings are larger, situated on spacious plots, and designed in a chalet style. Interestingly, the local website suggests that the village has "an air of Harry Potter," but it seems that French Indo-China has influenced its architecture. Several large structures, including the church, feature pagoda-style pinnacles, giving the village an exotic flair. One area is even known as Place de Tonkin.
The Lake
During my visit to Thorenc, I found the village relatively quiet. However, I recommend the Auberge de la Foret for lunch, which also offers accommodations. The lake was bustling with activity on a sunny day, living up to the original promoters' claims of clean and fresh air. Although the lake is artificial, the dam is discreet, and the scenery is stunning.
Unlike in the past, there are no boats on the water, but 'English-style' fishing (with a weight and float) is promoted on noticeboards by the lakeside. Judging by old photographs, this style of fishing has been popular here for over a century!
The Nature Reserve
Thorenc and its surroundings are worth visiting for their natural beauty. Additionally, next to the village is La Réserve des Monts d’Azur, a rewilding nature reserve that features European bison, Przewalski’s horses, deer, boar, and possibly wolves.
Thorenc has two useful websites. The main one is www.thorenc-station.com, but the Association des Amis de Thorenc has its own site here. I also recommend a short paper on the history of Thorenc written by Dominique Laredo, which can be downloaded from an archive site here. For the quote about Jean Luce, see Emile Litschgy, 'On lui disait Maubert-la-Piece', TAC 2001
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